Strolling on the Via Francengina: 07/22/21

Day 10 - Castiglione to 4 kms before Radicofani - 22-ish km

Last night it rained. Heavy rain. That rain was predicted to continue all day. The walk today was to be uphill and challenging with several fords that need wading across.

This morning we decided we would take a taxi to Radicofani and walk the 4 km back to the agriturismo where we are staying tonight and for a rest day tomorrow.

During our taxi ride we passed the rivers we would have needed to cross and they were very full and flowing fast. I am glad no wading was required!

Radicofani is another hilltop town with amazing views - apparently! We had a look around and found a geocache but it was cold, wet and miserable so we didn’t stay long.

We arrived at our accommodation at lunch time - only a few hours until dinner at 8! Luckily we have a bag of nuts and some biscuits! 

It’s a beautiful place, it should be lovely to look around tomorrow when the rain stops!

A nighttime view of the castle. 
Unfortunately we didn’t get to explore it because it was raining so hard

A cloudy and very damp morning.

Look, there's a castle outside the front door as well.

Radicofani - looking mysterious

It’s certainly atmospheric

Hahaha! Apparently from up here you can see the
 Via Francigena back all the way to Sienna! 

This is the cathedral, it has statues dating from the 12 century, it was calm, dark and peaceful inside.

This church across the road wasn’t quite so subtle!

The mist and rain rolling through the town

We went in search of the only geocache in the village. Through the eerie arch ...

... And into this dark ruin - it had gravestones inside! 

We head down hill to find our accommodation.

Well we weren’t expecting this

Or this!

It's clearing up then!

The clouds blowing across the view of Castiglione 
just as I took the photo

Our agriturismo comes into view. It is a small farm that specializes in making 
things from olive oil. I bought some amazing shampoo!

Look what we have in our room helping us to dry off! Only 6 more hours until dinner!

Day 9 - San Quirico to Castiglione d’Orcia, about 9 km

Today should be a 31 km day but we decided that was way too far so we put in this short day so tomorrow won’t be quite as long. 

Our hotel in San Quirico was some way from the town so we had the ‘special’ Easter dinner at our hotel. There was a huge group of cyclists there and the place was crowded. It was a set meal and what we assumed was three courses was, in fact, a 8 course tasting menu. There was soooooo much food I thought I might explode. It should keep us carbohydrate fuelled for a good week!

Anyway, our walk this morning was amazing, it took us up into the hills and down into the valley and then up again!

Arriving early in Castiglione we had time to visit the laundrette before the rain started and we took shelter in our room.

Just a short hike up hill

We are actually higher than this as we continued climbing after we left the Via

Gary's going for s new look to keep the sweat from running into his eyes.
I'm overjoyed!!!

Great excitement first thing this morning as we filled our drinks bottles from this machine!

Great views

Looking back over San Quirico

Actually going down hill - right down into the valley

This is pretty

And close up it was actually a small hamlet. It was beautiful and so peaceful

Going down hill again

See that little hill on the right of the photo near the cypress tree? it’s pointy? We thought what a pretty place but what a horrible climb up to it! Little did we know!!!!

This swimming pool in Bagno Vignoni was built in the sixteenth century but the thermal waters have been used since the Roman times.
You can see the bubbles coming to the surface

Down at the bottom of the valley was this beautiful wooden bridge to take us over the river

We could have used him!

We came down, now we have to go back up.

There’s that hill top village again. That must be a hard climb!

Up we go!

Oh look it’s getting nearer! Little did we know that

we were staying in it’s sister village - even higher!

Looking back across the valley

Our B and B for tonight in 14th century home

The view from our window

We have this in our room - I wonder which of us will knock it over first?

At least there should be some down hill tomorrow

This cat watched us do our washing.

Not so far but quite a few flights!

Day 8 - Buonconvento to San Quirico - 21 .5 km apparently

Wow, that was a long day! 

What started out as a long hike up hill was made harder by the ‘white’ road being covered in tiny stones that either rolled as you trod on them or dug up onto the tender parts of your foot. Also this white road was slanting either to the right or left so you ended up walking with one foot lower than the other. It was exhausting and ankles, knees and hips cried out in protest. 

We walked about 14 km on this before we came to a bench, and that bench was closely followed by a cafe that did cake and coffee!!!

After that the road went steeply uphill and we could see our destination for ages before we seemed to get nearer to it. 

Our luggage transfer so far has been great, with our bags being ready for us when we arrived. For the last 2 days we have had to wait until after 4.30, hopefully this is just because of the holiday weekend! Sitting round in sweaty clothes waiting for a shower isn’t fun!

Anyway, tonight our accommodation is outside San Quirico so while we were waiting for clean clothes to arrive we hiked into town to collect our pilgrim stamp, to visit its 3 churches and to have a small cocktail while people watching!

So we are doing the alternate route then! 

We went to a bar last night and sat outside and had a gin tonic. It was very quiet. Then the locals arrived and we found ourselves sitting among the trend setters of Buonconvento.

Leaving Buonconvento

We walked past lots of derelict factories on the outskirts of the town.

The haunted house. We shouldn’t have walked by this house, but we missed our turning. The geocache nearby said that their house was built in 1910 by a man trying to impress a woman. She turned him down and he had to give the house to his uncle because of the debts he had run up. He died of a broken heart shortly after. Now the house and it’s beautiful gardens stand empty

Back on the right track

Yep! Up hill on tiny stones!

It was a shame it was only 10 o’clock

Cypresses

These sheep were across the valley but we could hear the 
bells that they wear ringing as they grazed across their field

This dog was following Gary, it wanted him to play ball!

We saw a lot of vineyards.

Still climbing, what a view

You can see pretty flowers, we can see a bench

Fancy Easter eggs

We came from over there.

San Quirico comes into view in the distance

If you look carefully you can see the route zigzagging down the hill behind Gary. 
We went down into the valley and then back up again.

It doesn’t look that steep but it was and we climbed for 3 km

Nearly there. These other pilgrims were sitting on a bench - they left as we arrived!

The NINE course Easter dinner menu. 
You don't choose what you want for each course you have it all!!

Our home for tonight.

The town gate

A catapolt, obvs!

There's a geocache behind that lion!